We begin our day with a gradual but persistent ascent through the misty forest, the ground soft and soaked underfoot as we gain approximately 200 meters in elevation. The trail weaves between ancient lenga and coihue trees, their trunks dark with moisture, until the forest starts to thin and give way to exposed slopes of rock and scree.
As we climb steadily upward, the terrain becomes more rugged, and we’re soon battling strong winds and shifting clouds. For over an hour, we push through the final section, advancing carefully across loose stone and steep switchbacks. The air grows colder, and visibility may change rapidly as we approach the pass.
At last, we reach the summit of the John Gardner Pass, standing at 1,190 meters. Here, the landscape opens with sudden grandeur: the immense Southern Patagonian Icefield stretches out before us like a frozen ocean. The colossal face of Glacier Grey dominates the valley below—cracked, luminous, and endlessly vast. It's a view that freezes time.
After a long pause to absorb the scale of what we’re witnessing, we begin the demanding descent. The trail drops steeply toward Paso Camp, where we rest briefly beneath wind-twisted trees. From there, we continue along a winding path clinging to the cliffs, with spectacular vistas of Grey Glacier, Lake Grey, and Ferrier Hill guiding us forward. Several deep ravines require crossing via hanging bridges or metal ladders, expertly placed by park rangers to navigate these wild crossings.
We stop for a final short break at Guardas Camp, perched just above the glacier, offering an awe-inspiring close-up. From there, a final push leads us to Refugio Grey, where our camp is set among the trees and icy fragments drift silently across the lake just beyond.
Length of hike: 10-11hrs, 17km / 10.5Mi
Meals: Breakfast, picnic lunch, dinner
Accommodation: Grey Campsite